{"id":8885,"date":"2026-09-01T08:00:47","date_gmt":"2026-09-01T05:00:47","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/listaluiedelweiss.ro\/?p=8885"},"modified":"2026-09-01T06:59:31","modified_gmt":"2026-09-01T03:59:31","slug":"ce-e-in-neregula-cu-ikaria-by-anduta","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/listaluiedelweiss.ro\/index.php\/2026\/09\/01\/ce-e-in-neregula-cu-ikaria-by-anduta\/","title":{"rendered":"Ce e \u00een neregul\u0103 cu Ikar\u00eda by Andu\u021ba"},"content":{"rendered":"

Dac\u0103 ar fi s\u0103 o compar, fugitiv, cu alte insule grece\u0219ti \u00een care am ajuns p\u00e2n\u0103 acum, a\u0219 putea zice lejer c\u0103 Ikar\u00eda este cam r\u0103mas\u0103 \u00een urma oric\u0103reia dintre ele, din punct de vedere al dezvolt\u0103rii turistice.<\/p>\n

Pe Google Maps, unii turi\u0219ti nemul\u021bumi\u021bi o desfiin\u021beaz\u0103 \u00een review-uri, cu o stelu\u021b\u0103. Se pl\u00e2ng de o insul\u0103 f\u0103r\u0103 identitate, de lipsa de ospitalitate \u0219i chiar de senza\u021bia ciudat\u0103 de \u201ecimitir de ma\u0219ini\u201d sau de Spinal\u00f3nga (supranumit\u0103 \u201einsula mor\u021bilor vii\u201d de l\u00e2ng\u0103 Creta, unde bolnavii de lepr\u0103 ai Greciei erau exila\u021bi \u00een prima jum\u0103tate a secolului XX, ca s\u0103 moar\u0103 acolo).<\/p>\n

Unii mai spun c\u0103 raportul calitate-pre\u021b pe zona de HoReCa a luat-o razna. Se pl\u00e2ng c\u0103 pl\u0103tesc pre\u021buri de P\u00e1ros sau N\u00e1xos pe caz\u0103ri modeste, r\u0103mase nerenovate din anii ’90, cu mobilier vechi, saltele proaste \u0219i f\u0103r\u0103 cur\u0103\u021benie zilnic\u0103.<\/p>\n

Nici cadrul natural nu este pe placul tuturor. Pe coasta de nord, \u00een zone precum Armenist\u00eds, N\u00e1s sau Mesakt\u00ed, v\u00e2ntul Melt\u00e9mi poate crea valuri mari \u0219i curen\u021bi periculo\u0219i. Unii zic nu au putut intra \u00een ap\u0103 zile la r\u00e2nd, c\u0103 nu exist\u0103 salvamari \u0219i c\u0103 plajele r\u0103m\u00e2n cu alge sau de\u0219euri aduse de mare. La asta se adaug\u0103 reclama\u021bii despre gestionarea de\u0219eurilor, containere care dau pe afar\u0103 la marginea drumului, mirosuri nepl\u0103cute \u00een sate \u00een zilele calde \u0219i mormane de moloz sau resturi de \u0219antier abandonate \u00een natur\u0103.<\/p>\n

\u00cen plus, mai zic c\u0103 infrastructura face insula dificil\u0103 pentru familiile cu copii mici sau pentru seniori. Lipsa trotuarelor, relieful abrupt \u0219i potecile grele \u0219i accidentate spre unele plaje emblematice, cum e S\u00e9ychelles, nu sunt tocmai re\u021beta unei vacan\u021be comode.<\/p>\n

Nu \u00een ultimul r\u00e2nd, apar frustr\u0103ri legate de misticizarea excesiv\u0103 a locului, numit\u0103 de unii chiar \u201ethe longevity scam\u201d. Unii vizitatori spun c\u0103 se simt p\u0103c\u0103li\u021bi de documentare \u0219i de articolele despre \u201eblue zone \u2013 zona albastr\u0103\u201d, sus\u021bin\u00e2nd c\u0103 promovarea cu \u201eoamenii care uit\u0103 s\u0103 moar\u0103\u201d este v\u00e2ndut\u0103 mult mai spectaculos dec\u00e2t arat\u0103 realitatea de la fa\u021ba locului.<\/p>\n

Asta nu \u00eenseamn\u0103 \u00eens\u0103 c\u0103 fenomenul longevit\u0103\u021bii din Ikar\u00eda este inventat. Critica pare s\u0103 vizeze mai degrab\u0103 felul \u00een care a fost \u00eempachetat \u0219i transformat \u00eentr-un produs mediatic \u0219i turistic.<\/p>\n

\u00centr-un fel, \u00een\u021beleg review-urile negative, chiar dac\u0103 eu nu a\u0219 da insulei o stelu\u021b\u0103, ci 5. Dar nu ar fi 5 stelu\u021ba din extrema review-urilor pozitive, care-mi par exagerat de laudative.<\/p>\n

S\u0103 m\u0103 explic. Personal, nu am v\u0103zut dezvoltare variat\u0103 \u00een zona de HoReCa, nici \u00een cea de alte servicii. \u00cen Ikar\u00eda, oferta de petrecut timp liber se cam reduce, destul de cinstit (dmpdv pentru o insul\u0103) la pl\u0103cerile simple ale vie\u021bii: soare, mare, \u00eenotat, scufundat, lenevit pe plaj\u0103, m\u00e2ncat, b\u0103ut, plimbat, citit, iubit, din astea. \u00a0Am v\u0103zut multe cl\u0103diri abandonate, unele chiar pe plaj\u0103, cu un poten\u021bial turistic m\u0103ri\u0219or dac\u0103 ar fi renovate din temelii.<\/p>\n

Drumurile Ikar\u00edei, \u00eentradev\u0103r, pot fi provocatoare \u0219i obositoare, sunt \u00een pante abrupte, sinuoase aproape pe toat\u0103 lungimea lor, cu dou\u0103 benzi pe rutele principale \u0219i cam o band\u0103 \u0219i jum\u0103tate prin sate, unde deseori treci la mica \u00een\u021belegere cu cel din sens opus. Vezi destul de des indicatoare cu pant\u0103 de 13%, pentru care ai nevoie \u0219i de o ma\u0219in\u0103 destoinic\u0103, \u0219i de abilit\u0103\u021bi c\u00e2t de c\u00e2t decente de \u0219oferie.<\/p>\n

Viteza de deplasare cu ma\u0219ina e mic\u0103, media noastr\u0103 (noi<\/em> fiind so\u021bul meu \u0219i cu mine) a fost cam de un kilometru la dou\u0103 minute, deci un drum de 30 km poate dura lejer o or\u0103. Totu\u0219i, spre deosebire de ce am citit \u00een unele recenzii dramatice, asfaltul e surprinz\u0103tor de bun \u0219i f\u0103r\u0103 gropi.<\/p>\n

Relieful mi s-a p\u0103rut impresionant, dar \u00een general m\u0103 impresioneaz\u0103 relieful insular grecesc. Ai mare cu ap\u0103 bun\u0103, munte cu ni\u0219te st\u00e2nci superbe, p\u0103duri de pin care miros ame\u021bitor, capre l\u0103sate la p\u0103scut independent \u0219i stupi de albine peste tot.<\/p>\n

Deplasare pe jos am executat doar zonal, stil plimbare, prin sate \u0219i or\u0103\u0219ele. O singur\u0103 dat\u0103 am mers din Th\u00e9rma p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een \u00c1gios K\u00edrykos pe timp de golden hour, pe un drum de vreo 2 km, cu urc\u0103ri \u0219i cobor\u00e2ri zdravene, cu marea \u00een jos \u00eentr-o parte \u0219i p\u0103durea\u00a0 \u00een sus, \u00een cealalt\u0103 parte.<\/p>\n

Ne-am \u00eent\u00e2lnit la un moment dat cu dou\u0103 femei la un 80+ care coborau, la bra\u021b, foarte \u00eencet \u0219i sporov\u0103ind, o pant\u0103 cu \u00eenclina\u021bie mai mare de 13%. Le-am salutat \u0219i una dintre ele a exclamat: \u201eCe bine s\u0103 ai picioru\u0219e s\u0103n\u0103toase!\u201d. Nu mi-a fost clar dac\u0103 se referea la ele sau la noi. :))))<\/p>\n

La \u00eentoarcere, pe bezn\u0103 de ora 11-12 noaptea spart\u0103 doar de lun\u0103 \u0219i o puzderie de stele, \u00een pas agale \u0219i lini\u0219te morm\u00e2ntal\u0103 prin jur, pe m\u0103sur\u0103 ce ne apropiam de satul nostru, am \u00eenceput s\u0103 auzim muzic\u0103 live.<\/p>\n

\u00cenainte s\u0103 plec scriam despre panig\u00fdria ca petreceri, dar \u0219i forme de micro-economie comunitar\u0103, prin care se str\u00e2ng bani pentru proiecte locale. Am aflat c\u0103 tocmai se desf\u0103\u0219ura un astfel de eveniment, organizat pentru suplimentarea echipamentelor pompierilor voluntari, care patruleaz\u0103 \u0219i vegheaz\u0103 s\u0103 nu se \u00eent\u00e2mple incendii. \u0218i chiar n-am v\u0103zut nic\u0103ieri urme recente de incendii, de\u0219i vegeta\u021bia e din bel\u0219ug. Chestia asta mi-a atras aten\u021bia mai ales pentru c\u0103 pe alte insule grece\u0219ti am tot trecut pe l\u00e2ng\u0103 suprafe\u021be \u00eentregi cu urme de p\u00e2rjol masiv care-\u021bi cam chircesc sufletul.<\/p>\n

La panig\u00fdri \u0103sta, m\u00e2ncarea de baz\u0103 a fost souvl\u00e1ki \u0219i se st\u0103tea la o coad\u0103 mai mare dec\u00e2t la merdenelele de la nea Mihai. Forma\u021bia c\u00e2nt\u0103cioas\u0103 \u00een centru, ringul de dans \u00een fa\u021ba ei \u0219i mese lungi \u00een jur, ca la nun\u021bile de la \u021bar\u0103. M-am b\u0103gat \u0219i eu la c\u00e2teva dansuri, dar cam o or\u0103 de panig\u00fdri mi-a fost suficient.<\/p>\n

Am fost caza\u021bi \u00een Th\u00e9rma, pe partea de sud a insulei, o zon\u0103 bine protejat\u0103 de v\u00e2ntul\u00a0 puternic din nord, numit melt\u00e9mi. Apa pe partea asta fost \u00een toate zilele super lini\u0219tit\u0103. Tot aici, din apa m\u0103rii po\u021bi intra direct \u00eentr-o pe\u0219ter\u0103 r\u0103coroas\u0103, cu ap\u0103 termal\u0103.<\/p>\n

Am stat la Nef\u00e9li, un boutique hotel decent, renovat \u00een 2024, cu mic dejun inclus. Dac\u0103 l-a\u0219 compara cu ce am primit la acela\u0219i pre\u021b \u00een alte insule, adic\u0103 loca\u021bie fix pe plaj\u0103 sau sea view, a\u0219 putea s\u0103 m\u0103 declar nemul\u021bumit\u0103. Dar nu intru \u00een jocul \u0103sta. A fost curat, confortabil, micul dejun ok, o cazare c\u0103reia o s\u0103-i d\u0103m nota 10 pe Booking.<\/p>\n

Ne-am tol\u0103nit \u0219i pe plaje cu nisip, \u0219i pe plaje cu pietre , am avut la noi sc\u0103unele, p\u0103turic\u0103, umbrel\u0103 \u0219i mult\u0103 plaj\u0103 „la liber” la dispozi\u021bie . Dup\u0103 ce am rupt umbrela-n pietre \u00een penultima zi ne-am relocat la beach baruri. \u0218ezlongurile\/umbrelele erau gratis, trebuia doar s\u0103 faci ceva consuma\u021bie. Un sistem din \u0103la de pe vremuri, \u00eenainte de tarife fixe, rezerv\u0103ri \u0219i consuma\u021bie minim\u0103 obligatorie.<\/p>\n

M\u00e2ncarea la taverne mi s-a p\u0103rut bun\u0103, f\u0103r\u0103 brizbrizuri sau platinguri spectaculoase. Am m\u00e2ncat cam ca \u00een Grecia de acum 20 de ani, doar c\u0103 la pre\u021buri mai mari.<\/p>\n

Dup\u0103 ochii \u0219i urechile mele, turi\u0219tii erau cam 80% greci. Foarte rar am auzit englez\u0103 sau alte limbi. Am v\u0103zut doar dou\u0103 ma\u0219ini de Rom\u00e2nia, una de Ia\u0219i \u0219i una de Arge\u0219. Iar ma\u0219ina asta parcat\u0103 ostentativ, fix \u00een buza plajei din Th\u00e9rma la ceas de sear\u0103, ghici\u021bi de unde era.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Serviciile de la taverne mie nu mi s-au p\u0103rut deloc rele, doar netrecute prin \u0219coala turismului standardizat. Par \u00eenc\u0103 predominant afaceri de familie, cu cei din aripa t\u00e2n\u0103r\u0103 pe post de chelneri, meniul se recit\u0103 uneori pe de rost sau se aduce la cerere. Desertul din partea casei nu e o practic\u0103 universal\u0103. Interac\u021biunea e neformal\u0103, ne\u0219lefuit\u0103, lucru pe care turi\u0219tii prea obi\u0219nui\u021bi cu serviabilitatea educat\u0103 \u00eel pot traduce drept impolite\u021be.<\/p>\n

Ciudat mi s-a p\u0103rut c\u0103 n-am v\u0103zut aproape deloc angaja\u021bi str\u0103ini. Gazda noastr\u0103 spunea c\u0103 lipsa de personal a devenit, \u00eens\u0103, o mare problem\u0103 \u0219i c\u0103 ikario\u021bii sau grecii de pe continent nu prea mai vor s\u0103 lucreze sezonier. A\u0219a c\u0103 ia \u00een calcul ca de la anul s\u0103 aduc\u0103 personal din afara \u021b\u0103rii, cu ajutorul firmelor care se ocup\u0103 cu asta. \u00cen alte locuri din Grecia, ca \u0219i \u00een Rom\u00e2nia, asta e deja o practic\u0103 uzual\u0103.<\/p>\n

Am fost \u0219i la un alt eveniment local, o proiec\u021bie de documentar despre femeile comuniste implicate \u00een rezisten\u021ba politic\u0103 din Grecia anilor 1960\u20131974, inclusiv \u00een timpul dictaturii militare de extrem\u0103 dreapta din 1967\u20131974. O dictatur\u0103 profund anticomunist\u0103, care a interzis partide \u0219i \u0219i-a supus opozan\u021bii cenzurii, arest\u0103rilor, torturii \u0219i exilului. Ikar\u00eda, cu lunga ei istorie de refugiu \u0219i exil pentru comuni\u0219ti \u0219i al\u021bi opozan\u021bi politici, nu e deloc un loc \u00eent\u00e2mpl\u0103tor pentru o astfel de proiec\u021bie comemorativ\u0103, organizat\u0103 la \u0219coala din satul Christ\u00f3s R\u00e1ches. Un sat micu\u021b de munte, \u00een care din pia\u021ba central\u0103 po\u021bi face imediat \u021bup direct \u00een p\u0103dure.<\/p>\n

Am ajuns cu zece minute \u00eenainte de ora anun\u021bat\u0103 \u0219i \u00eenc\u0103 se amenaja locul, respectiv curtea \u0219colii, \u00een sensul c\u0103 se scoteau, pe geamuri, scaune pentru spectatori, pe m\u0103sur\u0103 ce ace\u0219tia ajungeau.<\/p>\n

Ne-am str\u00e2ns vreo 25-30 de suflete, majoritatea 70+. Filmul, programat la 21:00, a \u00eenceput pe la 21:45, \u00eent\u00e2rziere pe care am considerat-o moderat\u0103, citisem pove\u0219ti \u0219i cu trei ore de \u00eent\u00e2rziere.<\/p>\n

Dac\u0103 tot am vorbit \u00eenainte de plecare despre alimentele longevit\u0103\u021bii, am testat \u0219i mierea lor celebr\u0103, An\u00e1ma, dintr-o plant\u0103 care se nume\u0219te Erica Manipuliflora. Este foarte bun\u0103, are iz de caramel. Dar mie mi-a pl\u0103cut cel mai mult mierea de koumar\u00eda, Arbutus Unedo \u00eei zice plantei, produsul e u\u0219or amar, dar cu un aftertaste surprinz\u0103tor de pl\u0103cut. Am nimerit la unul dintre produc\u0103tori fix c\u00e2nd proprietarul aducea stupii. Cumva noroc, av\u00e2nd \u00een vedere c\u0103 e ceva ce se \u00eent\u00e2mpl\u0103 doar de 4 ori pe an. Cumva ghinion, c\u0103 erau destul de multe albine haosate prin jur. Ne-a ar\u0103tat atelierul de produc\u021bie, am testat toate cele patru tipuri de miere pe care le producea, am cump\u0103rat \u0219i miere, \u0219i keraalif\u00ed, un fel de alifie pe baz\u0103 de cear\u0103 de albine, curat balsam reparator pentru piele la vremuri grele, precum t\u0103ieturi, arsuri, irita\u021bii \u0219i alte belele.<\/p>\n

Spuneam \u00eenainte s\u0103 plec c\u0103 \u201eSt\u00e2nca Ro\u0219ie\u201d are o istorie lung\u0103 de exil politic \u0219i c\u0103 solidaritatea local\u0103 s-ar fi dezvoltat inclusiv \u00een perioadele \u00een care statul grec \u00eei trata cu ostilitate sau \u00eei ignora pe ikario\u021bii puternic st\u00e2ngi\u0219ti. Amprenta politic\u0103 se simte \u0219i azi. St\u00e2nga are o prezen\u021b\u0103 foarte puternic\u0103 pe insul\u0103, iar actualul primar e sus\u021binut de KKE, partidul comunist grec.<\/p>\n

Administra\u021bia local\u0103 nu pare foarte dornic\u0103 s\u0103 accepte investi\u021bii private. De ani buni se opune, inclusiv \u00een instan\u021b\u0103, unui proiect privat de 110 turbine eoliene \u0219i 330 MW pe creasta \u00c1theras, parte dintr-o zon\u0103 Natura 2000. Argumentele prim\u0103riei sunt c\u0103 proiectul este uria\u0219 \u00een raport cu nevoile energetice ale insulei, iar comunitatea nu a fost implicat\u0103 \u00een planificarea lui. Organiza\u021biile locale avertizeaz\u0103 \u0219i asupra efectelor infrastructurii necesare (drumuri, excava\u021bii \u0219i funda\u021bii) asupra eroziunii, peisajului \u0219i habitatelor de pe munte. \u00cen locul unui asemenea proiect, municipalitatea spune c\u0103 vrea un mix de regenerabile dimensionat pentru nevoile insulei \u0219i decis \u00eempreun\u0103 cu locuitorii.<\/p>\n

\u00cen paralel, revendic\u0103rile localnicilor sunt pentru mai mul\u021bi medici, asistente \u0219i personal permanent pentru spitalul public \u0219i centrele medicale, echipamente \u0219i servicii de urgen\u021b\u0103 mai bune, feriboturi mai dese \u0219i mai ieftine, drumuri mai bune \u0219i solu\u021bii pentru problemele cu de\u0219eurile \u0219i canalizarea.<\/p>\n

Dincolo de mitul longevit\u0103\u021bii promovat pe internet \u0219i de minusurile evidente, Ikar\u00eda mie mi s-a p\u0103rut un loc bun \u00een care s\u0103 te retragi, pentru perioade mai scurte sau mai lungi, din calea consumerismului, a turismului de mas\u0103 sau a celui de lux wanna be.<\/p>\n

O fi \u00een urma celorlalte insule ca dezvoltare turistic\u0103, dar nu \u0219tiu dac\u0103 asta e chiar un lucru r\u0103u. Anul trecut, \u00een O\u00eda, \u00een Santor\u00edni, vedeam peste tot t\u0103bli\u021be pe care scria: \u201eRESPECT. It\u2019s your holiday, but it\u2019s our home. We welcome you, please respect O\u00eda.\u201d Ikar\u00eda pare departe de punctul \u00een care s\u0103 fie nevoit\u0103 s\u0103 le aminteasc\u0103 turi\u0219tilor asta. Personal, a ajuns s\u0103 \u00eemi plac\u0103 s\u0103 ajung prin locuri \u00een care turistul se adapteaz\u0103 vie\u021bii localnicilor, nu invers.<\/p>\n

A\u0219adar, nu recomand Ikar\u00eda dac\u0103 \u00ee\u021bi dore\u0219ti o vacan\u021b\u0103 comod\u0103 \u0219i predictibil\u0103, cu servicii impecabile, hoteluri cu piscine, beach-baruri instagramabile, \u0219ezlonguri cu rezervare, shopping pe alese, via\u021b\u0103 de zi sau de noapte divers\u0103, drumuri rapide dintr-un punct \u00een altul. Nici dac\u0103 te enerveaz\u0103 s\u0103 conduci o or\u0103 pentru 30 de kilometri sau s\u0103 descoperi c\u0103 apa \u00een care \u021bi-ai propus s\u0103 \u00eeno\u021bi e impracticabil\u0103 \u00een ziua aceea din cauza v\u00e2ntului.<\/p>\n

\u021ai-o recomand, \u00een schimb, dac\u0103 \u00ee\u021bi plac \u0219i locurile mai pu\u021bin lustruite, \u00een care turismul nu pare s\u0103 fi \u00eenghi\u021bit \u00eenc\u0103 via\u021ba local\u0103. Dac\u0103 \u00ee\u021bi plac satele \u0219i ora\u0219ele mici, tavernele de familie, petrecerile comunit\u0103\u021bii, plajele f\u0103r\u0103 prea mult\u0103 infrastructur\u0103, muntele, p\u0103durea, drumurile \u0219erpuitoare \u0219i vacan\u021bele f\u0103r\u0103 cine \u0219tie ce obiective turistice. \u0218i mai ales dac\u0103 nu te deranjeaz\u0103 ideea c\u0103, pentru c\u00e2teva zile, nu locul trebuie s\u0103 se adapteze nevoilor tale, ci tu locului.<\/p>\n

Chiar dac\u0103, da, e\u0219ti acolo pe banii t\u0103i, cu care \u00een alt\u0103 parte…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Dac\u0103 ar fi s\u0103 o compar, fugitiv, cu alte insule grece\u0219ti \u00een care am ajuns p\u00e2n\u0103 acum, a\u0219 putea zice lejer c\u0103 Ikar\u00eda este cam r\u0103mas\u0103 \u00een urma oric\u0103reia dintre ele, din punct de vedere al dezvolt\u0103rii turistice. Pe Google Maps, unii turi\u0219ti nemul\u021bumi\u021bi o desfiin\u021beaz\u0103 \u00een review-uri, cu o stelu\u021b\u0103. Se pl\u00e2ng de o…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":8886,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[36],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-8885","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-de-la-altii"],"yoast_head":"\nCe e \u00een neregul\u0103 cu Ikar\u00eda by Andu\u021ba - Lista lui Edelweiss<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Dac\u0103 ar fi s\u0103 o compar, fugitiv, cu alte insule grece\u0219ti \u00een care am ajuns p\u00e2n\u0103 acum,Drumurile Ikar\u00edei pot fi provocatoare \u0219i obositoare...\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/listaluiedelweiss.ro\/index.php\/2026\/09\/01\/ce-e-in-neregula-cu-ikaria-by-anduta\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Ce e \u00een neregul\u0103 cu Ikar\u00eda by Andu\u021ba - 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